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<blockquote data-quote="Opmmur" data-source="post: 130268" data-attributes="member: 13"><p><span style="font-size: 26px"><span style="color: #00ff00"><em><strong>Sheet film used for Kirlian Photography</strong></em></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 26px"><span style="color: #00ff00"></span></span></p><p><img src="http://www.imagesco.com/articles/kirlian/images/kirlian/BlackAndWhiteKirlian.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p><span style="font-size: 18px"><span style="color: #00ff00"><em><strong>Black & White Film</strong></em></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 18px"><span style="color: #00ff00"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 18px"><span style="color: #00ff00"><em>Kodalith 2556 Ortho film type 3 is a high contrast B/W graphics arts film available in a 4" x 5" sheets. This film is perfect for beginners because you can use a red safelight and not work in complete darkness. If a safelight isn't readily available you can try using a red LED, neon lamp or wrap red acetate plastic over a dim 4 watt bulb.</em></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 18px"><span style="color: #00ff00"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 18px"><span style="color: #00ff00"><em>I advise all beginners to start with black and white ortho film. It is less costly and easier to work with than color sheet film. You also have the opportunity to develop the film to get immediate feedback. Someone who starts off shooting color film must wait to get the film develop to see what has been recorded.</em></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 18px"><span style="color: #00ff00"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 18px"><span style="color: #00ff00"><em>Developing B/W ortho film is easy. The chemistry works quickly and is simple and forgiving. You only need two chemicals; developer and fixer. A stop bath is usually employed in between these two steps, but isn't absolutely necessary.</em></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 18px"><span style="color: #00ff00"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 18px"><span style="color: #00ff00"><em>Black and White (film or prints) is not as spectacular as color. The experience one gains by being able to observe all the steps under a safelight is invaluable when one has to work in complete darkness with color film. Using a high voltage power supply in the dark can be a pretty daunting task, so it's best to familiarize yourself with the process in the least costly manner.</em></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 18px"><span style="color: #00ff00"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 18px"><span style="color: #00ff00"><em><strong>Color Film – Daylight or Tungsten Balance</strong></em></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 18px"><span style="color: #00ff00"><em>Color film requires exposures to be made in total darkness. Working in total darkness can be a problem. Sometimes I sandwich the color film between two black opaque sheets of paper in total darkness, then turn on the safelight. After I make my exposure, I turn off the safelight and place the film in a light tight box for development in total darkness.</em></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 18px"><span style="color: #00ff00"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 18px"><span style="color: #00ff00"><em>Both tungsten balance and daylight film give striking color transparencies. The tungsten balance film usually produces colors in the yellows, oranges and reds. Daylight film usually produces colors in the blues and greens.</em></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 18px"><span style="color: #00ff00"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 18px"><span style="color: #00ff00"><em><strong>Daylight Type Sheet Film</strong></em></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 18px"><span style="color: #00ff00"><em><img src="http://www.imagesco.com/articles/kirlian/images/kirlian/KirlianLeaf.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></em></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 18px"><span style="color: #00ff00"><em><strong>Tungsten Balanced Sheet Film</strong></em></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 18px"><span style="color: #00ff00"><em><img src="http://www.imagesco.com/articles/kirlian/images/kirlian/KirlianPhotograph_Key.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></em></span></span></p><p></p><p></p><p><span style="font-size: 26px"><span style="color: #00ff00"><em><strong>Making Exposures Using Sheet Film</strong></em></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 18px"><span style="color: #00ff00"><em>What you are photographing determines whether or not the object involved should be grounded.</em></span></span></p><p></p><p><span style="font-size: 18px"><span style="color: #00ff00"><em>Whenever you photograph a living subject (person, animal or pet) under no circumstances should that subject be grounded or be allowed to touch a ground during exposure. Being in contact with a ground will lead to a nasty shock. Further, anyone with a heart condition or pacemaker should consult with their primary care physician before photographing or allowing themselves to be photographed using this Kirlian device. </em></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 18px"><span style="color: #00ff00"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 18px"><span style="color: #00ff00"><em>When photographing an inanimate object such as a coin, keys, leaf, etc. then connect a ground to the object. Grounding the object produces a stronger corona discharge. You can use a natural ground by connecting a wire to an earth ground, such as a cold water pipe. Or you can use a circuit ground by connecting a wire to point B (see <a href="http://www.imagesco.com/articles/kirlian/kirlian-photography-device.html#Figure2" target="_blank"><strong>Figure 2</strong></a>) to the object. </em></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 18px"><span style="color: #00ff00"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 18px"><span style="color: #00ff00"><em> <img src="http://www.imagesco.com/articles/kirlian/images/kirlian/Figure4.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /> </em></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 18px"><span style="color: #00ff00"><em><strong>Figure 4</strong> </em></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 18px"><span style="color: #00ff00"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 18px"><span style="color: #00ff00"><em><strong>Figure 4</strong> illustrates the overview for making an exposure. In some cases you might place a flat sheet of glass (or plastic) on top of the object to make the object lay flat on the film and discharge plate. </em></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 18px"><span style="color: #00ff00"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 18px"><span style="color: #00ff00"><em>Whether you're working with black and white or color film, place the film emulsion side up on the discharge plate. Place the object you are photographing on top of the film. If the object is inanimate, connect a ground wire to it. Flick the switch SW1 about 10-20 times. Each time the switch is flicked you should see a discharge between the object and the discharge plate. This is what is being recorded on the film. Proper exposure is determined by trial and error, making adjustments accordingly. </em></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 18px"><span style="color: #00ff00"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 18px"><span style="color: #00ff00"><em>Often times one uses B/W sheet film to determine the proper exposure then switch to a color sheet film for the final shoot. Black and White ortho has the advantages of being able to work using a red safe light and easily developed. </em></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 18px"><span style="color: #00ff00"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 18px"><span style="color: #00ff00"><em>If you would like to use a standard 35mm camera or video camera to record Kirlian pictures it is possible, but you need to construct a transparent electrode. </em></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 18px"><span style="color: #00ff00"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 18px"><span style="color: #00ff00"><em>The 35mm camera should be a single lens reflex (SLR) type with one or two close-up (macro) lens. In addition the camera needs to have a Bulb (B) setting on its shutter speeds. The B setting keeps the shutter open for as long as the shutter is held down. </em></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 18px"><span style="color: #00ff00"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: 18px"><span style="color: #00ff00"><em>Photographers typically use a cable release connected to the shutter to make B exposures. Most cable releases can be set to keep the shutter close when first pressed. The cable has a release mechanism the photographer hits to release the cable and allow the shutter to close after the exposure is made. </em></span></span></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Opmmur, post: 130268, member: 13"] [SIZE=7][COLOR=#00ff00][I][B]Sheet film used for Kirlian Photography[/B][/I] [/COLOR][/SIZE] [IMG]http://www.imagesco.com/articles/kirlian/images/kirlian/BlackAndWhiteKirlian.jpg[/IMG] [SIZE=5][COLOR=#00ff00][I][B]Black & White Film[/B][/I] [I]Kodalith 2556 Ortho film type 3 is a high contrast B/W graphics arts film available in a 4" x 5" sheets. This film is perfect for beginners because you can use a red safelight and not work in complete darkness. If a safelight isn't readily available you can try using a red LED, neon lamp or wrap red acetate plastic over a dim 4 watt bulb.[/I] [I]I advise all beginners to start with black and white ortho film. It is less costly and easier to work with than color sheet film. You also have the opportunity to develop the film to get immediate feedback. Someone who starts off shooting color film must wait to get the film develop to see what has been recorded.[/I] [I]Developing B/W ortho film is easy. The chemistry works quickly and is simple and forgiving. You only need two chemicals; developer and fixer. A stop bath is usually employed in between these two steps, but isn't absolutely necessary.[/I] [I]Black and White (film or prints) is not as spectacular as color. The experience one gains by being able to observe all the steps under a safelight is invaluable when one has to work in complete darkness with color film. Using a high voltage power supply in the dark can be a pretty daunting task, so it's best to familiarize yourself with the process in the least costly manner.[/I] [I][B]Color Film – Daylight or Tungsten Balance[/B][/I] [I]Color film requires exposures to be made in total darkness. Working in total darkness can be a problem. Sometimes I sandwich the color film between two black opaque sheets of paper in total darkness, then turn on the safelight. After I make my exposure, I turn off the safelight and place the film in a light tight box for development in total darkness.[/I] [I]Both tungsten balance and daylight film give striking color transparencies. The tungsten balance film usually produces colors in the yellows, oranges and reds. Daylight film usually produces colors in the blues and greens.[/I] [I][B]Daylight Type Sheet Film[/B][/I] [I][IMG]http://www.imagesco.com/articles/kirlian/images/kirlian/KirlianLeaf.jpg[/IMG][/I] [I][B]Tungsten Balanced Sheet Film[/B][/I] [I][IMG]http://www.imagesco.com/articles/kirlian/images/kirlian/KirlianPhotograph_Key.jpg[/IMG][/I][/COLOR][/SIZE] [SIZE=7][COLOR=#00ff00][I][B]Making Exposures Using Sheet Film[/B][/I][/COLOR][/SIZE] [SIZE=5][COLOR=#00ff00][I]What you are photographing determines whether or not the object involved should be grounded.[/I][/COLOR][/SIZE] [SIZE=5][COLOR=#00ff00][I]Whenever you photograph a living subject (person, animal or pet) under no circumstances should that subject be grounded or be allowed to touch a ground during exposure. Being in contact with a ground will lead to a nasty shock. Further, anyone with a heart condition or pacemaker should consult with their primary care physician before photographing or allowing themselves to be photographed using this Kirlian device. [/I] [I]When photographing an inanimate object such as a coin, keys, leaf, etc. then connect a ground to the object. Grounding the object produces a stronger corona discharge. You can use a natural ground by connecting a wire to an earth ground, such as a cold water pipe. Or you can use a circuit ground by connecting a wire to point B (see [URL='http://www.imagesco.com/articles/kirlian/kirlian-photography-device.html#Figure2'][B]Figure 2[/B][/URL]) to the object. [/I] [I] [IMG]http://www.imagesco.com/articles/kirlian/images/kirlian/Figure4.jpg[/IMG] [/I] [I][B]Figure 4[/B] [/I] [I][B][/B][/I] [I][B]Figure 4[/B] illustrates the overview for making an exposure. In some cases you might place a flat sheet of glass (or plastic) on top of the object to make the object lay flat on the film and discharge plate. [/I] [I]Whether you're working with black and white or color film, place the film emulsion side up on the discharge plate. Place the object you are photographing on top of the film. If the object is inanimate, connect a ground wire to it. Flick the switch SW1 about 10-20 times. Each time the switch is flicked you should see a discharge between the object and the discharge plate. This is what is being recorded on the film. Proper exposure is determined by trial and error, making adjustments accordingly. [/I] [I]Often times one uses B/W sheet film to determine the proper exposure then switch to a color sheet film for the final shoot. Black and White ortho has the advantages of being able to work using a red safe light and easily developed. [/I] [I]If you would like to use a standard 35mm camera or video camera to record Kirlian pictures it is possible, but you need to construct a transparent electrode. [/I] [I]The 35mm camera should be a single lens reflex (SLR) type with one or two close-up (macro) lens. In addition the camera needs to have a Bulb (B) setting on its shutter speeds. The B setting keeps the shutter open for as long as the shutter is held down. [/I] [I]Photographers typically use a cable release connected to the shutter to make B exposures. Most cable releases can be set to keep the shutter close when first pressed. The cable has a release mechanism the photographer hits to release the cable and allow the shutter to close after the exposure is made. [/I][/COLOR][/SIZE] [/QUOTE]
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