Another Inside the HDR Thread: Dissecting my HDR

I always believed that Steven Gibbs was losing money @ $360.00 per HDR, just based on the number of hours he put into each one. (especially hand rolling the electromagnet). ;)

I totally agree. The wire for the magnet is the most expensive item on the list. The magnet is very tedious and time consuming to make. I tried to duplicate the magnet but was never able to obtain soft iron for the core. Ordinary steel tends to heat up very rapidly.
 
The HDR box Steven used is a phenolic instrument case made by Keystone Electronics. I believe the case part number is 701 and the top cover part number is 2038. Please verify measurements first just to make sure I am correct. The case and cover are currently available at Mouser Electronics.
the cases i used in my hdr units was smaller as i had trouble trying to find the ones gibbs used before
 
I totally agree. The wire for the magnet is the most expensive item on the list. The magnet is very tedious and time consuming to make. I tried to duplicate the magnet but was never able to obtain soft iron for the core. Ordinary steel tends to heat up very rapidly.
one inch diameter mild steel bar as recommended before by gibbs is no good use 2 inch diameter mild steel bar you can then run the hdr for hours and it wont even get hot and over heat
 
the method above solved the over heating problem easy and some people who have brought the Gibbs hdr have also experienced over heating problems with the electromagnet, as for the metal switches no good they have an outer metal body and if a wire strand should stick out and touch the body it be no good even if the wire comes off and touches the metal switch body then you'll have a dangerous situation, ? i used plastic 240- 250 v ac switches and the soldered wires to them are - heat shrink tubing covered where they are soldered so no danger there the plastic switches are electrically insulated and dont conduct dangerous voltage through the outside of its body, only its inside contacts conduct , for the electromagnet i used hi temperature polyimide Kapton tape a few layer's between each coil layer and at the end its taped over by high temperature stretchable silicon tape that molds into itself . the polyimide Kapton tape is used for winding transformers motors etc etc and when you put a few layers over the coil the next coil layer will wind evenly on top and not sink in leaving the wire coil layers uneven, to see how i wind then b y hand i used the easy method of rolling the wire on and guiding the wire in with my hands and fingers see my videos how i did it . on my youtube channel
 
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ive herd about that putting it in the freezer but then you'll get water condensation inside it and it dont go to well with the hevey ac mains voltages , gibbs was very hevey on the tape as he must of used an awful lot just to try keep the temperature down when it would be easier to do that by increasing the core diameter size to 2 inches for the electromagnet it then can heatsink better ,
 
like to see under the diode board if you can show that and the side view of the rubbing coil as i like to see if its completely flatt inside that resign he used on it
i have SAME INTEREST TO SEE UNDER THE DIODE BOARD AND SIDE VIEW OF THE CADUSES COIL Please Doc5 take Hi Res Pics i am building an HDR now i ordered the last 1.0 uF 250V Metalized Film Capacitor (Blue ) Capacitor on Ebay.
 
and then i saw on your post where to buy the same exact Box i rilly wanna make the same HDR as Steven damn it i was just about to order 3 HDR’s from Him and then i found out that he died
 

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